It’s Friday afternoon and there’s a distinctive sound emanating from the kitchen beneath St. Peter Catholic School in Ashton. It’s periodic laughter and the percussive clunk of chopping as a handful of volunteers mix massive vats of coleslaw, trim hundreds of slabs of cod, and line up tray after tray of homemade cupcakes.
In a few hours, the sound will be replaced by a din rivaling that of any busy restaurant. Baskets of battered cod will be lowered into cracking oil, and more than 1,000 people will line up to take part in a Wisconsin tradition.
It’s a tradition that has been going on here, at St. Peter Catholic Parish, for four decades now.
Friday night fish fries take place in many different venues. Their origin, however, is linked to the devoutly religious European communities that settled in this region of the Midwest.